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Travel Uncategorized Writing

Letter the third

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June 18th, 2014

Dear Sean,   I had a dream while I was taking a siesta today.   I was writing a poem when a little flame spoke to me. Although it was a few feet away in the fireplace, its voice reached me as almost uncomfortable warmth in my ear.

 

“I’m going out!” it said, and begged me to feed it something before it starved to death.

 

“I don’t have anything,” I said, but I really did worry for it.

 

 

“That paper, in your hand. I can eat that.”

 

“But it’s my poem!”

 

“I’m dying! Hurry!”

 

Panicking, I threw my fresh-writ poem to the fire.

 

“It’s not enough, said the little flame, who had flared for a bit was small and weak again. “Can I have the rest?”

 

I held a notebook full of poems, it seemed. “I can’t. All my poems…”

 

“You wrote them before, you can write them again,” it reasoned. I wasn’t sure about this at all. “But when I go out I’m gone forever!” So I agreed, tore out the poems and fed the fire, despite my regret all the writing.

 

I didn’t even know what any of them were about, and I thought I’d never be able to write them again.

 

“More,” the flame demanded, though it was almost a proper fire at this point. Looking around the room now I saw lots of things that would burn, things I hadn’t seen before. Notebooks all over the place. It didn’t seem as difficult this time to throw them whole into the fire. I could feel the heat now, burning the whole of my face.

 

Then someone came into a room, a man, furious, screaming at me that I’d ruined him, that I’d burned all of his work.

 

“No, they were my poems,” I told him, but even as I said it, I was afraid that they hadn’t been. I couldn’t remember what they were about after all, nor did I have any memory of writing them other than the one I’d burnt first, the one I’d been writing when the fire first spoke. So the man kept shouting at me that I’d ruined him, and the fire wasn’t speaking anymore, wouldn’t back me up, just acted like a normal fire that was now getting really hot and out of control.

 

 

I woke up before finding out what happened, if the room burned down or if the man tried to get revenge.   The fire starting out in the ear was undoubtedly the result of the sun coming through the window where I slept, which would have reached my ear first then moved across my face as time went on, spreading to the rest of my face. The other parts of the dream, however, I don’t understand.

This is not the first dream I’ve had recently about writing poetry, but all the others before this have been normal. Giving poems to writer friends for feedback (and them telling me “eh… keep trying.”) I thought perhaps this was my subconscious trying to give me a not so subtle hint, but now I don’t know.

 

 

Apparently I needn’t have worried about not having anything to update you with aside from the state of my sunburns (none, as yet.)   The very evening after I finished your last letter, some strangers broke into the buffalo paddock and were trying to get at our beasts. B. had gone to the stables to feed the rabbits (there are several, but I’ve only named the two that allow me to pet them: Somerset and Maughm.) She had been gone for a bit so I went down the road to check on her and found her, standing with her arms crossed, surrounded by three people who drove an old red car.

The ringleader I heard before I saw, him speaking very crude German. In my best, “What’s all this then,” police officer voice, I asked them what they are doing, in English.

 

“Oh. English, English.” He says. “Maybe no problem.”

 

“Oh, maybe BIG problem, I said, and turned to B. “What’s up?” I asked.

 

She was clearly on guard and confused.

 

“What’s up?” he repeats, laughing, trying to make fun of me.

 

“What are you doing here?” The group look around. Ringleader is trying to laugh it off. (At this stage, I didn’t know that he’d actually been caught in the paddock. Before he left, M. said that he thought people were stealing hay from the barn, so I thought this is what had been happening.)

 

The woman looks annoyed, not with me but with the man who is trying to laugh his way out of this. I made a decision. “Big problem,” I told him, and jerked me thumb at the road. They got in the car and left, and we called M. and L. to find out if we hadn’t just rudely kicked out some of their friends.

 

We hadn’t.

No idea who they were. That was good; I would have hated to have wasted my best John Wayne impression for nothing. There is something satisfying in running people off. That’s twice now. There’s something empowering in it. But that sort of thing makes me sound like a bully, so I’ll stop.

 

We didn’t even make it back to the house before another drama occurred. I won’t bore you with the details, because I realise it’s probably not as interesting to you as it is to me, so I’ll sum up. I’ve mentioned Leyla, the wounded mare who stays in a little paddock beside the house at night. Someone, M. suspects P__ovich (it’s his land, he thinks he can do whatever he wants with it”), had tied up a strange horse in her paddock. We heard the whinnying and neighing and ran over. The two beasts were kicking at each other. A kick to her belly is the last thing she needs, with that wound. I separated them, in the end.

 

The following day the stallion ran to the neighbouring farm to insinuate himself with the mares there. So I had to run and find him and bring him back. But, when I went out there, searched the large field and the neighbour’s field, no stallion. Found him in the end, just left of the apple tree near the rest of our herd. I’d say it was a lot of trouble for nothing, but it was actually a very scenic walk, one I wouldn’t have taken otherwise. I don’t regret wandering the afternoon away.

 

My forefinger on my right hand is stained a purple/blue. The romantic in me likes to pretend it’s ink stains, from all that writing I supposedly do (with fountain pen, or better yet, a quill) but in reality it’s the antibiotic I have to get into Leyla’s wound, which gapes in her underbelly and oozes and drips large quantities of yellow pus.

My stomach just growled. Either something is very wrong with me or I didn’t eat enough at breakfast.

 

I’ve just resigned myself to being filthy until September. Still haven’t showered, but neither has anyone else. Either I’ve stopped stinking, or I’ve stopped smelling the stink. I’m pretty sure my room smells like horse. I really should leave my shoes outside. Perhaps today or tomorrow I can convince B. to go to the river Tisa for a swim.

 

I used a scythe yesterday. I’m supposed to clear Leyla’s paddock if I want. I have no idea why I thought they had a lawn mower, or a tractor mower, when we get our drinking water from a well and the facilities are just an outhouse. In any case, I said I’d try to clear the field and was handed a scythe.

 

Such a wicked looking tool, or maybe that’s just because one associates it with the grim reaper. If he uses his scythe on people they way I do on tall weeds… that makes him all the more terrifying. I always imagined death as a quiet, stately fellow who gathers people up like a gentle shepherd, and the scythe is just a glorified walking stick. To think of the grim reaper actually reaping… Brrr… Heebie jeebies.

But as I was trying to mow the field I thought of Levin and his peasants. He wasn’t the best, and many times he got tired, but he stuck with it the entre time. But I’m not a Levin, more’s the pity. I didn’t last as long nor did I reach his level of zen whilst I was working. Maybe this was because of the unevenness of my field, and the amount of weeds and other plants that made uniform cutting, that made finding a rhythm, impossible. But my mind did go blank for a time. I thought of nothing but mowing that field. My imagination didn’t wander too far, as it’s wont to do. No further than Levin.

 

Pitchforks and scythes. I feel I could be quite lethal with farm equipment by the end of the summer. Or ready, at least, for a peasant revolt.

 

The gashes on my hand and knee are healing niceish. And I’ve just received another email about Berlin’s War edits. Fills me with shame, the amount of work I’m not doing. Well, I’m doing plenty of work but none in a literary or academic nature. (I originally wrote, but none in my field, which I had to change because it was precariously close to a pun. Ignominious sneaks.)

 

We (jerry-)rigged a short of shelter for the firewood yesterday, as it looked like rain. I feel more and more like Slim Chance the cowboy every day; I have an entourage of dogs.

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My favourite isn’t even our dog, but a shepherd’s dog who follows me around when I’m out.

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I was with the horses last night (horses, not buffalo, are my main responsibility. They are wild Hutzl horses.) I was with them, sitting on a stump on the edge of the river, when one of Igor’s bulls spots me and approaches, head down. I didn’t know if he was curious or angry, but I had nowhere to go but backward and down (brings me back to my great tumble down in the Arbuckle mountains, or was it the Wichitas?, after being set upon by a bison. I wonder if this will be a recurring theme in my life.) In any case, Sikan (which means Gypsy in the old local dialect that the villagers speak, which is partly Hungarian, partly Ukrainian, partly something else entirely) runs at the beast, places himself in front of me and snarls and barks and runs the bull off. He knew he was a hero too, because he came trotting, no, galumphing back, jumped right in my lap and started licking my face demanding his reward of pets and belly rubs for saving me. I happily obliged.

 

The other dogs, Leika and Emily, are officially attached to the farm, but another dog has appeared, and follows me everywhere. B. has named her Ivanka (it was Ivan before we realised it was a girl.) I watched her eat a dead bird today. My first impulse was to stop her, as I’d be horrified if one of our dogs back home did that. But this is how stray/wild dogs survive. Who am I to say no to the poor beast’s meal? I don’t feed her, so I shouldn’t stop her feeding herself.

 

 

Finally finished Elegance of the Hedgehog (which mentions Levin as well, and other situations in Anna Karenina) recommended to me ages ago by Britni Halbert. No, Britni Brecheen. (Well, she was Halbert at the time.) I put things on my to-read list and I eventually get around to them, even if it’s a few years later.

 

Now reading Kafka’s The Trial. I won’t give my opinion yet; I’m sure it will sound ignorant anyway.

 

 

June 24th We have a neighbour, Igor, who is perpetually grumpy, but actually very kind and helpful. He does favours for us and is always ready to lend a hand, with a frown. I only tell you about him because he smiled at me yesterday. Granted, I think it was my stupidity that amused him, as he speaks not a word of English or German and as yet, my Ukrainian is very limited.

I came across him at the back of the stable and he asked me a question. No idea what he was saying, so I smiled stupidly at him and shrugged. He did it again, and got the same response from me. Then he smiled, actually smiled, and said. “Good. Okay,” (words that are in my Ukrainian word bank) and went off again.

I know he was laughing at me, but the fact he wasn’t grumping made it worth it.

 

Sikan (Gypsy) my favourite dog, the one that rescued me from that bull last week is nowhere to be seen today. Yesterday there was an odd canine cry and everyone in the house rushed out to see. He was lying in the street, teeth bared strained, in obvious pain and distress.

At first I, like everyone else, though he’d been attacked. After a moment I remembered, and saw Peter in the road instead of Gypsy.

 

“He’s having a seizure,” I said. “We just have to wait until it’s over.”

 

And it was in another minute. I told them he was probably epileptic, but I’d never seen him have a fit before. Sikan tried to get up and run away, but his back legs weren’t working, so he just flopped back down and panted.

 

Poor thing.

 

I sat with him and petted him until he was well enough to drink and come sleep on the porch. I left for some work and haven’t seen him since. Though B. said she saw him having another fit not even an hour later. The shepherd has a new dog, looks like one of Sikan’s sons. This upsets me greatly. I wonder if my friend hadn’t taken a blow to the head, and wasn’t epileptic at all. I fear he’s lying dead somewhere, all alone.

When I can walk again, I’ll have a look around the territory for him.

 

Surely I shouldn’t end the letter here, on such a sad note, but I don’t know what else to say.

 

Well, I suppose I could tell you about Ina, the wild mare whom I’ve been assigned to try to tame. I’ve made progress. She lets me approach and pet her, something she allows no one else to do. Attempting to ride her worked really well, except when her baby ran away (a colt who is more a teenager than a baby.) She panicked and ran after him, throwing me off quite neatly. That wasn’t so bad. No broken bones, only bruises and scrapes. (To be honest I’m just glad she didn’t throw me into the nearby beehives.)

I got her and her baby back, and continued riding. At the end, when we were almost at the stables, silly baby runs away again but this time it was as I was getting off Ina. She turned around quickly and knocked me over with her hind legs and proceeded to trample my feet, dancing on my left foot and landing hard on my right heel. At first I thought the heel was the worse off, as she’d put a lot of weight on it. But it’s only bruised on the inside, and there’s lots of meat and one strong unbroken bone beneath.

It’s the left foot, the lighter injury, which seems to be worse off. She landed right on top, with nothing but my shoe between her hoof and my ickle bonesies. I think two might be fractured (though I haven’t told them that. They felt guilty enough, like they personally stomped all over me. I don’t want them to feel bad, or that my tarsals are too delicate for the work.) There was no ice in the house to put on my rapidly swelling feet.

 

 

I had to use cheese.

 

 

 

Your limpy sister,

 

~K

 

P.S. This happened.

 

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Categories
Travel Uncategorized Writing

Letter the Second to my Brother – Ukraine is not weak!

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June 12-13, 2014

 

Dear Sean,

 

I arrived at the Ukrainian border town just after one in the morning, with stormclouds and lightning in the distance. If this were a novel, that would be fraught with symbolism or foreshdowing. As it is, I can only hope that the only thing it portends is rain. Wouldn’t mind it. Budapest was hot, and my cabin on the train didn’t have a window that opened, or a fan. Quite sweltering. It’s been over a day since I’ve showered and I’m feeling rather sticky. My hair doesn’t even bear thinking about. I wonder how I will appear to my future employers, wandering up to them with my huge pack on my back, 2 days dirty and smelling like a gymsock. (My actual socks also do not bear thinking about, or smelling. They are, what one might call… overripe.)

I was glad when the sun set. I couldn’t see the scenery for more than an hour so after the dusk, but the lightning was pretty. Can’t compare to even an medium Oklahoma storm, though. Still, it smells of proper rain here. Cardiff, though it rained all the time, never smelled like rain, only damp. Probably the nicest smell in the world (rain, not damp, obviously). That and Petrichor, petrichor, petrichor.

 

Got through a book on the train, one I’ve been looking forward to for some time. When Mr Dog Bites. I’ll lend it to you if you like, when I’m back.

 

I’ve only got one eye in, so my depth perception is rather poor, which makes reading more of Tibor Dery’s short stories rather tough going, tougher than usual. A Greek friend had one eye permanently slower than the other, so when the dominant eye got to a word, his other eye was still lagging behind in the sentence. I can’t imagine how difficult it is for him to read. I would just use an eye-patch, like Sir. That reminds me, I didn’t say goodbye to Alexandros before I left. Come to think on it, I don’t think I said goodbye to anyone outside my course. Whoops. Wait, no. I said bye to the receptionist of my building. She’s always been so lovely.

 

I had a compartment to myself for most of the trip (a lady did join me later, which I admit, was disappointing), and after the sun set and I was done with Mr Dog, and had done a little bit of tip-tapping on the story that shall not be named, I played my harmonica. Either the people in neighbouring compartments couldn’t hear it, or they didn’t care enough to complain. I made up a new song to go with the lightning—A variation on a theme of John Adams’s Gnarly Buttons. Do you remember that CD I lent you? I still don’t think I’ve ever heard such perfectly peripatetic music.

I need a new harmonica, though. Two of the notes drag on the in-breath. I think some of the inner metal is warped.

 

Let me tell you more about my train compartment. Right next to the window was a little writing desk, It was perfect really. Like the old school desks, and when you lift the top, you could push it all the way back so that it sticks to the wall and beneath is a little basin with running (non-potable) water. I wish I’d spent more time at the desk typing away, but I had to finish Mr Dog. Still, I made use of it. There was a large wide upholstered seat. Though I suppose it’s not really upholstered because you can take it off and underneath is the same red faux velvet as the bunk above. The train employee gave me a hand towel and some sheets (pillows were on my bunk above) but I didn’t use them. I did lie down for a moment but it was really too hot to be comfortable. So I sat up with Mr Dog and my Alphasmart. Above the desk was a cupboard that opened up, revealing a light that comes on automatically, a mirror, an outlet, and what looked like bottle holders, I took photos before the lady came, I’ll attach them. Pictures may be worth a thousand words, but it certainly does feel like cheating a bit., sort of removes the challenge of description. Jane Austen didn’t have that luxury when she wrote to her sister, Cassandra. P.S. Since I couldn’t be bothered to describe the tea at Mrs. Fairfax’s, nor our niece’s embroidery, I’ve enclosed a sketch… (Cassandra had the sense to burn all of Jane’s interesting letters, so only the boring ones remain. Pity for us, but well done on Cassandra’s part.)

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Like I said, I arrived at the station in Chop just after one one the 13th. Quite an unwelcoming sounding name. Again, quite glad real life’s occurrences don’t have to be steeped with ulterior meaning. Did I mention that it was a full moon? It was yellow and had a large halo, though I’m not sure if that wasn’t just because my window was dirty. But it was lovely all the same, to sit in the dark and see it peeping through the clouds. I confess, I spent much of my night journey just staring out the window. I seem to spend much of my time staring out of windows, whether it’s on a train or not.

 

The train ride, at 6 hours, was still too short. I wished it had gone on, straight on till morning. Trains are their own sort of Never neverland. But now I’m just being silly and ridiculous.

I’ll stop here for a bit. I thought of something to add to a story. And I’ve run out of rambles.

 

 

June 16th, 2014

 

We did the hard hay work this morning, and M. and L. (the couple that run the farm) left to go to Odessa for a few days, so I have several free hours together to write to you.

I suppose I could have written Sunday, because we don’t work Sundays— not because they are religious but because it would offend the VERY pious villagers.

And we don’t want to be offensive, so…

 

B. (the other worker here) and I went down to the orthodox church to hear the singing. We didn’t go in, only sat in the street outside. I didn’t have my head covered and she had bare legs. It bothered me, but only a bit. To hear the orthodox chanting, it sounded like followers of a cult, especially knowing that they would dislike us, judge us, for doing work that needed to be done or for being dressed the way we were. After several minutes staring at the grape vines that the villagers use create shade in front of their houses, I got used to the singing.

 

It wasn’t my idea to go, but B. wanted to. She is 40 and East German. So, unlike me, she never had religion pressed onto her at an age where one too young to both understand or protest. Having grown up with atheist communism, church services and religious ceremonies are interesting things, tourist attractions. She said as much. I wish I could enjoy them as she does.

My fingernails are perpetually dirty. Mother would be ashamed. And Sir would chide me for the shape of my hair already. (He was unimpressed when I came home for Christmas from Cardiff, which is first world-land with running water and everything.) I’ve got so many tangles but I can’t be bothered to get them out. I’ve showered once since coming. And calling it a shower is excessively generous, I think, because really it’s just filling up a bucket and taking it outside behind a tarp. One uses a cup to pour water over oneself. I can’t use my normal shampoo and conditioner, because those chemicals go right into the earth again.

I thank the gods, old and new, for the patchy wifi. We have WIFI! And electricity! Granted, not in my room, or indeed, in several of the rooms, but it means internet, and the charging of devices that give us music.

Usually they cook on the firewood stove, but as it’s high summer, that would be entirely too hot. So they’ve bought a little camp stove, like that green one our father has for longer camping trips. It’s hooked up to a tank of gas (that B. never remembers to shut off after cooking.) It’s the exact same set-up as the galley on so many of the yachts I’ve sailed. I would say that it makes me nostalgic, but nostalgia implies longing, which I don’t feel. Primitive toilets, infrequent bathing… the situations have their similarities, but there’s a lot more work involved on a farm, but oddly, a lot more sleep as well.

Oh! I’ve been sleeping! Out like a light just after sunset, and up again after sunrise! It’s rather a miracle, but then again, I suppose not. I’ve read that camping resets one’s circadian rhythm. (Does the adjective circadian describe any noun other than rhythm? Or is that an exclusive collocation? Circadian demand? Circadian impetus? Circadian suggestion? Circadian business hours? I’m sure I don’t know.)

I also haven’t written a word on my portfolio since Budapest. I enjoy the work, in a painful sort of way. But I’m usually so content after a hard spate of hay lifting or some such that when I’m done I’m all too content to just sit and enjoy the not working. Sometimes I read but even that has somehow lost it’s relaxing quality. I can usually get in about 20 minutes of reading once I’ve tucked myself in bed, but I fall asleep so quickly after that. I’ve been reading he same book for the last 4 days without finishing it. This is what normal working people must feel like. How appalling.

I’ve been listening to a Handmaid’s Tale when I’m doing work that allows it. Usually wandering around the few miles looking for the horses in the evening to bring them back into the paddock for the night. That can take some time. Also, I listened to it while peeling and chopping vegetables for the mediocre dinner I prepared yesterday.

Strange that, actually, that I was cooking dinner at all. I’ll tell you the tale of it.

V. P__ovich, he’s the one who technically owns this farm house and lands. He lets the people who run it stay here for free, on account of the butchering of buffalo some years ago that he feels, if not guilty about, at least would like everyone to pretend it never happened. I suppose he feels it’s awkward more than anything. He owns a lot of the village, and knows people, apparently. The Ukrainian version of the Godfather. He tells people to do things, treats them like they’re his to do with as he likes. In our case, since we are staying here for free, it’s awkward to refuse him.

I first met P____ovich day before yesterday as M. and I were coming back from collecting hay from someone across the village, who had it growing in his back yard and didn’t want it, so he gave it to us for free, if we’d come and collect it. We spent the cool morning hours (and the hotter late morning hours) loading the hay via pitchfork into the horsewagon, pulled by the sturdy and powerful Tibor—a stallion who knocked me down the first time we met, as I was holding onto him, looking off into another direction when he spotted a mare (Leyla) and took off after her. (this little altercation cost me a gashed open knee and hand.) Poor thing, she was tied up and tried to run but got caught in the rope and nearly took a tumble, which would have been bad news because, she’s got a nasty wound in her belly.

(The first time I tried to type out wound my fingers put would instead. I only now notice there’s only one letter difference between would and wound… like laughter and slaughter. Something quite unpleasant in the realisation.)

Anyway, that was the first time I met P____ovich. M. told me that every meeting with the man is like a performance, you have your lines to read and you must laugh on cue at his jokes and basically pander to his grand ideas of himself. He tried to make conversation with me, but I didn’t really care that his granddaughter’s name was the same as mine (or near enough, Katya). I just wanted to get out of the sun and get the hay in the stables. P___ovich was eventually satisfied with his peasants and let us continue on our way, but a few minutes later some men in a car pull up beside are cart and ask M. very rudely something in Ukrainian. I only understood one word, and that was P___ovich’s name.

“Who was that?” I asked, once M. had pointed them men vaguely in some direction, with a non-committal shrug.

“Someone from the bank or the police,” he replies. “P____ovich is in trouble with them, and they are always trying to find him.”

“Oh.” What else can one say to that?

The next day, M. comes up to me and says, almost awkwardly, that P__ovich has just called and said that he’d come over within the hour, and that I was to go over there and help him do some work. “Okay,” I said. I know nothing about running farms, I just do as I’m told.

M. told me that I didn’t have to go, that he doesn’t own me and I don’t have to do anything I don’t want, and then I understood. ­Ew. I asked him what he thought was best. He said that they weren’t in a position to refuse him any favours, but that he didn’t like that he acted liked he owned any of us. The other three were talking in the kitchen for a time then B. knocked on my door.

“I think it’s best if you stay here. That way you can start dinner and bring in the horses while we are away.” Actually, that’s a summary. She went on and on about the logic of her plan, which might have been necessary if she were trying to convince me to do the harder work, but she was trying to explain why I should stay in the house and peel vegetables (that mediocre dinner I mentioned). I was happy not to go, but she needn’t have been so delicate about it.

They weren’t gone very long, but something odd did happen while I was on my own. I was working on the supper when I heard the front door open. I thought it would be one of the workers but it was a stranger. He stepped into the kitchen, were I was struggling with some vegetables.

Lucky I had been peeling; the knife was already in my hand. It was like a magic wand, I just had to point it away from the potato and toward the stranger and presto! He disappeared. When the others came back (not too long after they had left, indeed several hours before horses needed to come in or indeed before dinner, making B.’s logic a bit faulty, but I’m not going to complain) I told M. about the man who’d come into the house.

“He had eyes like this,” I said, putting my hands in front of my face and pointing in opposite directions.

M. and L. were both kind and concerned and asked if he touched me.

“Nope!” I answered cheerfully, and told them about my magic trick.

“If he ever comes up to you again, just hit him, punch him, or kick him. He’ll do anything he can get away with.” I understand that this man had bothered many of the female workers in the past, even L. herself.

“Absolutely will do.”

I haven’t seen him since, though. I like to think the crazy knife lady has scared him off. Who knows, though.

Now I must pause in this letter, to go fetch some drinking water from the well.

 

I would rather go to the well twice a day with the bucket rather than once every other day with the tub. The thing is too unwieldy to carry and I end up with a fifth of the contents splashed down my leg.

 

My old iPod (the large black one I got in Japan… 7(?) years ago, yikes) isn’t working any more. Perhaps because I dropped it. Anyway, I’m sad, because it was the only place that most of my music is stored. I particularly wanted to listen to Schubert’s Wintereisse this afternoon at tea (I plan out the music I listen to when I intened to have a luxurious tea, be it in duration or preparation, and today I wanted Gute Nacht especially). In any case, my plans have been thwarted by my faulty iPod. Ah well. First world problem. Still, it’s a pity that all that wonderful music is lost to me. It’s also where some of my old audiobooks are, were, stored. Le sigh.

Let it go. It’s only stuff.

Wait, is it stuff? If I can’t even hold it, see it, like a song or an audiobook, which are more feelings, aural art (set to music or word) than they are items. Because it’s not the iPod itself I regret, which obviously is an object. I mourn the information, the opera (pl. of opus, not the musical genre, but lots of opera music has been lost, come to that), which are unsaved anywhere else, irretrievable. (It now occurs to me what a lonely, woeful word irretrievable is—lost forever.)

 

I’m afraid that the letters from the next three months will just be about hay and horses, with a few buffalo thrown in (gratis).   1559293_520295773574_2956242193434565873_o He just came up to me and started licking my leg, brazen bovine.

 

Maybe an update on sunburns (currently none, or perhaps one very minor on my nose.)

 

This letter is already over 3,000 words long. If writing my portfolio were as easy as writing to you, dear brother, I should have already finished by now. Ah well.

Give my regards to Ali and Ali’s sister.

Best wishes and all that,

~Katya

 

P.S. As a special treat to myself I’ve added a dollop of honey to my spot of fog. What shall we call it? Honeysuckle spog? Think on’t.

 

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(On the other side of those mountains is Romania. I would walk there if I chose. Might ride one of the horses there one of these days.)

Categories
Books Travel Writing

A Letter to My Brother

Because I’m a better correspondent than blogger… this post is an email I’ve recently sent my brother, which sums things up.

 

Dear Sean,

I write this letter, as I may. It’s been a while since we’ve spoken, and since having one of our Skype chats would be inconvenient in a hostel, I’m writing you a letter. Insomnia is made much more unpleasant when you are forced to spend the late and early hours in a hostel surrounded by young people snoring drunkenly, (and so unappreciative of their ability to sleep). I plugged myself into an audiobook the entire night through. Bad idea, as it happens, because now it’s properly day out, and there’s 5 hours left of the book and I don’t want do anything other than finish it. This certainly means a wasted day in Budapest. It was already noon by the time I actually got out of my bed, and that only because I was hungry.

 

Even then I continued to listen to it while I ate my instant noodles. I made tea too, but somehow it seemed less acceptable to just sit there drinking tea for another several hours whilst plugged into my iPod. Most people would think I’m unsociable. Which is probably true but they wouldn’t know that I’m unsociable because I’m thoroughly wrapped up in a novel. A novel that I hadn’t even intended to get to until I was well shot of my final portfolio. Too bad. So, I took my tea and my typing machine to the patio table outside the hostel and told myself I WOULD write. But the thing is, I was so stuck in the English countryside (the novel is I Capture the Castle by Jodie Smith, such a silly thing that I didn’t think I’d like, the description isn’t that impressive but the reviews are fantastic. I was hooked almost at once. The narrator is so… readable. It has that appeal to young white girls, I suppose, that Jane Austen does, but set in the 1930s. And no, I don’t really recommend you read it unless you really want to, though if you did I think you could appreciate it on an aesthetic level.) In any case, I felt it was a bit hopeless to try to get back to writing Budapest (even though that IS where I am) so to get myself going, I thought I’d better write to you, even though my blog is in desperate need of updating. Much has happened but I just haven’t got the knack of what to say in a post. It comes out all wrong. I really am the worst blogger, in content and timing.

ToDoist isn’t helping me, I’m afraid. It’s not that I need reminding to do things, I just need to want to do them. (Was I always such a lazy child? I rather think I was.) Which brings me to Uncle Berlin’s manuscript. Well, if I can waste a day not doing any work at all, and reading things that cannot even by the loosest construction be considered research, I suppose I can spend a few hours every evening editing.

 

I’ve finished my tea, but not this letter. I will make more.

 

Back now. So glad this hostel has free tea, and a kitchen that doesn’t close. Real tea leaves too, not Lipton tea bags. Black from Turkey, mint from Morocco, Hibiscus from Egypt, and green from Sri Lanka. Well, and camomile tea bags. Or at least, it smells like camomile, I can’t tell just by looking at the label. (Hungarian really is quite unlike any other language I’ve come across. Delightful and intensely frustrating at the same time, especially since I won’t be around long enough to learn it.)

 

I haven’t much money, so tea fills my stomach in between meals of sachets of tomato soup, ramen noodles, and the cucumber and cream cheese bagels from the bookshop here that I like. The place is horribly dusty, frightfully unorganised, plays just the sort of music that I like (from Satie to Billie Holliday) and has a secret garden out the back. It would be quite perfect, only I feel that are simply not enough books.

 

But then again, I suppose that’s my complaint about everything, so that says nothing. I’ve come across many bookshops that I love, but I’ve never found the perfect bookshop. I suppose I’m saving that for the one I’ll one day open myself in Morocco.

 

I bought two anthologies of Hungarian poetry yesterday; bilingual editions with the original Hungarian, and the English versions on the opposite page. They haven’t been just translated, but reversed by famous English and American poets, to keep the same feel of he poem more or less in tact. (Or so I am led to believe, as I cannot actually read Hungarian, though the bookshop employee was very obliging in translating a few words for me when I asked him.) They were rather expensive, and I will have to throw away more clothes to make room for them in my pack, but they were necessary. You can’t walk more than a block or two without crossing a street named for some poet. I’m convinced Hungarian poets have gone shockingly unappreciated. But then again, that’s the same for most poets, I suppose. Most artists, too. Nothing really romantic about being an unappreciated starving writer abroad, though I suppose that’s exactly what I’m doing. Not doing me any harm, as I gained a lot of weight in the UK, and can afford to be a bit hungry. It’s a wonder all academics aren’t jigglier people, or perhaps they are and cleverly hide it with waistcoats, jumpers, and tweedy jackets (with optional elbow patches).

 

I haven’t got my mark back for my final essay. It would serve me right if they failed me. I was horribly offensive. When will I ever learn? I should have stuck to my boring idea, I had plenty of material and it wouldn’t have involved stepping on anyone’s toes. As it is, I think I must have offended nearly the entire staff, at least a bit. Ugh, I get squirmy just thinking about it. It is the sort of thing I would have felt far more comfortable saying to their faces; turning it in as an essay makes it seem like an official declaration of disapproval. My classmates, on the other hand, encouraged the essay, and discouraged direct confrontation. I suppose they don’t have much faith in my tact.

I took a walking tour about the history of communism in Hungary. I really got on with the tour guide, she’s a writer too, and offered to help me with anything I’d like to know about Budapest. Unfortunately, all that this has resulted in her pointing out everything that is wrong with my premise. I am now convinced I’ll never know the culture well enough to set a story here. Actually, I feel that about every setting I use, even the American ones. Perhaps especially the American ones. I think I am cursed to write stories about people in places they don’t really fit in and don’t truly understand but I’ll never be able to outdo Camus, so what’s the point? Don’t answer that, I know the point.

 

Besides, the agent wants a magical story set in Budapest, so that’s what I shall write. Being mercenary makes me actually feel better about it, but there is that sense of humiliation in picturing a Hungarian reading it and being disgusted by all its faults. The agent might not notice, but my brain would cringe at all the inaccuracies (both real ones and the those I imagine are lurking throughout the story, hiding from me behind the ignorant facades of buildings that I’ve erected for the setting.)

 

I suppose I’ve worked my way back to Budapest now, and should have a go at writing it. I think I’ll go back to my bookshop to do it, though. The patio is nice (though it’s not really a patio, I’ll attach photos) but I’m bothering people, I think. I’ve been here too long.

There’s seems to be no good place to play my harmonica.

Your sister,

~Kathryn

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P.S. I think my favourite thing about Budapest is the sheer number of flower stalls they have on the streets. I don’t know why this should please me, I always sneeze when I go by, and I couldn’t identify more than a handful of them – and even then it’s as simple as, sunflower, lily, rose, daisy, petunia. I might also recognise a tulip. (Those were the ones that grew around the tree in the front yard of our old house, yes?) But I do like the names of flowers, even if I don’t know what they look like, especially the important sounding ones. Perhaps what enchants me is just the necessity to have them on every street corner, to cater to the people’s need of readily available fresh flowers, bouquets at a time. I always imagined flowers as a luxury, a decadent item. But in a city were the average monthly salary is less than 500 euros, people can hardly be expected to waste money on pretty trifles. I can only conclude (using my own inane logic) that in Budapest, flowers are not luxuries, but necessities. And isn’t that nice, somehow?

 

Rhododendrons and chrysanthemums,

~K

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Categories
Books Travel

Book-shopping in Budapest

It is a singular sort of torture (as a linguist and a book-luster) to surround yourself with books that you can’t read.

I have wanted to read Philip Roth’s Everyman for some time, but I know that it would be pointless to get this copy (though some imp of the perverse still urges me to get it).

So why do I do this to myself? Because where else am I supposed to go?  In the company of books, I’m always at home.

That having been said, I’ve compiled a list of bookshops that sell foreign language books; I intend to visit as many as I can whilst I’m here. I’m looking especially for translations of Hungarian literature.

So begins my quest.